Deciphering Jewelry Stamps and Markings

Woman inspecting a ring for markings in Houston, TX

Understanding Jewelry Markings

Shopping for jewelry can be a little bit like a treasure hunt, and knowing what you are hunting can make it very exciting. Even if you have already chosen between different precious metals and stones, and you know exactly what pieces of jewelry you want, the markings on jewelry can seem mysterious. How do you decipher all those little marks to learn more about the jewelry? We have some information to help guide you to the perfect pieces.

Hallmark Guide for Jewelry

Hallmarks are the most common type of jewelry stamp. Often written as a combination of numbers, letters, and symbols, they are required by law in most of Europe, where they have been used since at least the 1300s. In the United States, however, they are not required or regulated. Hallmarks can help you determine a piece of jewelry’s country of origin, date, and metal type. They can also indicate the purity of gold. To find the hallmarks on a piece of jewelry, you are likely to need a magnifying glass.

  • Numbers on jewelry represent purity. If you see a three-digit number on a piece of jewelry, it indicates the amount of pure gold it contains. A 916 on a piece of gold jewelry would mean it is made of 91.6 percent pure gold, which is the same as saying it is 22 karat gold. A piece of silver jewelry stamped with 950 indicates Brittania sterling, which is 95 percent pure silver.
  • Letters indicate the year the jewelry was hallmarked. The font changes every 26 years, once 26 years have passed, when the cycle begins again. In 2000, for example, the letters started over at A, so 2025 would be represented by the letter Y.
  • Symbols show certification and authentication by an assay office. Assay offices have their own unique symbols; a leopard head, for example, indicates the assay office in London.
  • Maker’s marks show the identity of the designer or artist who created the jewelry. Also known as manufacturer’s marks, they can also be stamped with a logo, a name, or initials.

 

Gold Purity Stamps

Typically found on the inside of a ring band or the back of a bracelet or necklace, these stamps identify the purity of the metal used in the piece of jewelry. On gold jewelry, this purity is shown in karats. 10K indicates jewelry that consists of 41.6 percent pure gold and 58.4 percent alloys. 14K is 58.3 percent pure gold, 18K is 75 percent pure gold, and 24K indicates 100 percent pure gold, though this metal is too delicate for most pieces of jewelry. If you do find 24K gold, it will probably be in a necklace or earrings, which are not at as high a risk of being damaged as rings and bracelets are. Platinum jewelry is marked with a 900 to show that the jewelry has 900 per 1000 parts platinum. These marks include 900 Platinum, 900 Plat, Plat 900, and Pt900. The other metals used in platinum jewelry are often palladium or rhodium.

Decoding Jewelry Symbols

If you see 925 on a piece of jewelry, it indicates sterling silver, which contains 92.5 percent silver. Typically, the other 7.5 percent will be copper, because that combination creates a durable metal. You might see letters following a 925 stamp, to show the manufacturer. Sometimes, a piece of jewelry will be stamped with GF, which means it is gold-filled, with gold bonded to a base metal, or GP, indicating gold plating. GE stands for gold electroplating, and HE means heavy gold electroplating. There are also stainless steel stamps to identify jewelry made of stainless steel, and some pieces of jewelry are marked with an A, for antique, or a diamond, indicating a gemstone.

Unusual Jewelry Stamp Meanings

Not all jewelry has markings, but sometimes you will come across a piece with something you don’t understand. Some of the more unusual markings are maker’s marks or indicate the quality of a gemstone or of a metal that isn’t gold. For example, 5R is a designation of a ruby with a deep, strong red color.  960 represents Argentium silver, made of 96 percent silver. When in doubt, ask an expert. This is one of the advantages of shopping at a family-owned jewelry store, where the staff is well-versed in jewelry and can help you determine its value.

Start Your Treasure Hunt at Houston Jewelry Buyers

Shopping for fine jewelry can be fun and rewarding, especially when you shop at Houston Jewelry Buyers. Since 1967, we have taken pride in serving the community, buying and selling the highest quality fine jewelry and providing unrivalled customer service. In our stunning showroom, you will find more than 25 showcases of the finest designer jewelry, loose gemstones, and Swiss watches. Many of our pieces come with a warranty, and we have an in-store jewelry manufacturing and repair facility, so that we can repair your jewelry on the spot, while you enjoy complimentary refreshments in our store. Our family of jewelers is committed to providing exceptional customer service, with jewelry at incredible and unbeatable prices. Located in the Galleria area of Houston, our family owned business is the top jewelry buying and selling business in the area. For a free appraisal or to find the perfect piece of jewelry, visit our store or contact us through our website to learn more about all we have to offer.